El Sol d'Espana - Lost & Found

Buenas Noches!

Well it is now nearing the end of our trip to Spain so perhaps time to report on the adventures we have had – AVENTURA – indeed!  I must say that this trip has been full of surprises – I envisioned a different kind of trip – one that involved a bit of time on the beach – without a sweater on ;)  Instead I was even contemplating skiing on the Sierra Nevada above Granada today (but it’s icy and windy and early in the season so best to save my $ for Swedish skiing)!  So yes, the weather has been minimally cooperative in terms of sunshine.  This is the Costa del Sol (“the coast of sunshine”)– well most of the year!  Of course it is important to remember that this is definitely low season and so bad weather is not totally unexpected – but a couple of weeks ago Vickie’s friend Jim who is a travel agent in Granada said it was absolutely beautiful!  Sigh....  but when the sun has made an appearance for us, it is easy to see why people love it here!  I saw a sign today “Costa del Sol  Costa del Golf” – although I am not going to be golfing on this trip (thought about it - me and Seve chilling on the fairway?)– but how would I find my ball in the rain and the wind – I need Tyler or Don to help me with that – I think they would be happy to golf here with me here next time?

I should start by mentioning that Vickie (my former housemate from UBC days who lives in Cork, Ireland) finally made it last Saturday late afternoon amidst the lashing rain – after missing her early am flight (the only one of the day) on Friday and then being delayed for 4+ hours in Dublin Saturday am when she woke up to SNOW IN IRELAND – very unusual – although again going with the theme of poco loco weather throughout Europe – this week it is not so unusual and she is now uncertain what the status of her departure will be on Friday if the snow doesn’t stop in Ireland!  Turns out that when it snows in Ireland of course they don’t have snow plows – why would they – they have 30 different words for RAIN not snow – alas they were trying to sort the snow with street sweepers?!  For Canadians quite a sight – well I imagine for all it must look rather ridiculous!  I’m happy to be living in northern Sweden where dare I say they handle the snow removal even better than us Canucks! 

Vickie makes it in the lashing rain - FINALLY!!!

While Vickie was sitting on her plane waiting 45 minutes to be de-iced (at least they haven’t run out this year?) I was cruising around the city of Malaga.  I think this is more of an arrival city than a destination for tourists, but it was great for me – I enjoyed my time milling about the city with the locals – although by the time I got back to the hotel mid-afternoon in time for siesta after lots of window shopping in these great narrow winding criss-crossing streets (shops close early afternoon and then re-open later in the day – so civilized compared with Sweden where shops close around 2-3 pm on Saturdays and that’s it until Monday) I was SOAKED – should have brought my rubber boots! 

One must get creative with wet feet - multi-purpose hairdryers come in handy for boot drying!

When Vickie arrived we decided we would get some supper – however the problem was that we headed out at 7:30 pm – and that is TOO EARLY here in Spain.  The big meal here is lunch – which is eaten during siesta (2-4’ish), and then the locals eat a lighter LATER meal for supper.  Quite a shift from Sweden and North America!  So we went for a drink and then after 8:30 when the restaurants re-opened we enjoyed our meal.  So that was an introduction to the schedule of Spaniards – quite different from Sweden!  The only downside to eating out in Spain is that it is still very much a smoking indoors culture – coming home at the end of the night reminded me of younger days coming home from the bar and needing a shower to get the smoke stink out before bed! 

Vickie and I awoke on Sunday morning to sunshine – and the magic of Spain was obvious :)  We made the most of the day and soaked it all up – walking along the beach, and having drinks on a docked tall ship in the sun, and finally hiking up the hill to the ?Palacio Gibralfaro for marvelous views of the region (and some exercise). 

Vickie waves to the sailors on the ship next to us (had to stop her from putting on a risque show for them)

La Playa - Muy Bonita!

Vickie and I at the ?Palacio - a good walk UP!

Malagueta!

Some observations on the food and drink here… They free pour their drinks here – forget the shot glass – they pour and then they pour some more.  A wee bit strong for me – got a little lightheaded after my fishbowl-sized gin and tonic on the tall ship.  Coming from Sweden where a drink costs me over 10.00, Spain is cheap with drinks costing just a few dollars.  A glass of wine is $2-3 (if only I liked wine – it is cheaper than soda here!) and in the tapas bars drinks come with a free tapa – which can be anything from a sardine on bread (not so exciting for me), olives, olive oil and fresh tomato on bread, deep fried eggplant, calamari, and so on.  Delicious!  We are frequent visitors to the Pasteleria (land of croissants, pan au chocolat, et al!).  The local oranges are coming into season here in Spain – I am getting my fill - along with pomegranates, which it turns out is what Granada is named for!  Who knew – not me!  Hello Mudda Hello Fadda – I am here in Camp Pomegranate ;)  

Bread & Chocolate - what more do I need?

Me gusta me gusta me gusta (I LIKE - a LOT!)

After a lovely SUNNY Sunday - how apropos eh ;) we took a very packed night bus to Granada.  Unfortunately, I can’t say that the time in Granada was sunny – but it was still lovely.  On Monday morning we decided to make lemonade with our lemons and instead of trekking in the rain we went to the local Turkish baths – Hammam.  For two hours we soaked in hot baths and plunged in a cold pool and enjoyed a short massage.  Delightful!  And a welcome respite from the rain.

A view from the bus between Malaga and Granada

The Street Outside our Hotel - Calle Navas

Monday night we got to experience true Spanish football rivalry – Real Madrid vs Barcelona.  While the game was playing literally EVERYONE in the bar had their eyes glued to the screen and when a goal was scored the energy in the pub was intense.  And there were many a goals scored for Barcelona fans in the crowd –they totally cleaned house on Madrid – FIVE unanswered goals?!  Today our hotel front desk guy who is a huge Barcelona fan said “Why is Ronaldo Christian, b/c he prays to Messi”, and followed up with Did you hear about the weather in Madrid?  It has gotten frigid - about five degrees colder – well I forget all the jokes but they were funny at the time (jokes are always best when they come from the source eh!!! Sorry!)

Tuesday I played tourist at The Alhambra while Vickie laid low and caught up on zzzz’s.  There is lovely footage of Loreena McKennit's concert here (thanks Ken!).  If you have not seen The Alhambra – it is worth seeing someday!  Amazing to think that back in 1238 something like this place could be built!  Amazing!  Reminiscent of Egypt.  And because it is already low season and on top of that it is cold (I finally broke down and wore my toque at The Alhambra) there was virtually no one else there with me.  Vickie tells me that usually it is totally packed.  So I felt like it was a special experience to get to experience it the way I did!  The architecture and detail are amazing – as you can see in the photos (I took rather too many perhaps but couldn’t help myself!) –a lthough they hardly do it justice!  But it was really quite amazing – even on a very mojado (wet) day!   http://www.flickr.com/photos/annabob/sets/72157625500808164/ for the full set of photos.

Inside the Nasrin Palace (?sp)

A closer view - the details - wow!

Where does this door lead to?

Amazing views from The Alhambra :)

So much stone work - increeible!

Did I mention the SHOPPING yet – oh the shopping – well in the end I haven’t yet needed to buy a bigger bag for the trip home but I still have another day ;)  But I have found my new favorite store – Desigual – a Spanish store that has all sorts of fun patterns on their clothes.  In the end I decided that if it was cold enough in Spain (10C in Granada, a bit warmer in Malaga) for me to need a jacket then I might as well be wearing a funky Spanish one – so I splurged :)  I’m on holiday right ;)  Some things are not so cheap in Spain, but still necessary! 

My new favorite store - come to Canada por favor!

Vickie in her super cute new outfit - singing in the rain?

New hats for the rain too - gracias Vickie!!

AVENTURA – the theme of our not so sunny Costa del Sol holiday continues!  Yesterday there was a Manifestacion (strike) by some of the civil servants, which disrupted bus service, but was otherwise peaceful.  The economic times are not good here and the recession is evident in the reduced prices of hotels, et al.:(  Anyhow, we had a lovely evening hang out with Vickie’s friend Jim and his family, including a very cute and energetic Ines who thought “Mickie Mouse” was coming to visit – but alas it was just Vickie and Anne.  

The Traveling Former Housemates

Today Vickie and I made our way back from Granada to the Costa del Sol in an area not far from Malaga where the sun IS (?was) shining and I can hear the waves breaking in the sea.  Vickie met someone on the snowy Dublin planewho is living here and figured why not stop on in and say hello and see the sun – well another Aventura anyhow!  The sun has returned intermittently and estoy feliz!  We were going to go in the water today but then the rain came again – I swear it is following us ;)  Never leave home without an umbrella is the new holiday mantra– and I think the local market for rubber boots has seen a dramatic increase  But tomorrow rain or shine (preferably!) I will take a dip in the Meditteranean –when in Spain…Vickie and I feel that there will be many future fond and humorous recollections “Remember that one time in Spain…” 

Got to wear sunglasses today ;)

Finally going for a swim  - sort of  - it's COLD :)

But wait - here comes the rain again - ahhh the Eurythmics know it well ;)

Tomorrow is our last day here and then on Friday morning I get on my first plane (to Barcelona-perhaps a stop at Desigual), my second plane (to Finland – Marimekko shopping maybe), my third plane (to Stockholm – perhaps a break from shopping), and finally to home sweet home Umea late Friday evening.  Snowy darkness here I come again – after a partial recharge of sun, and a full recharge of vacation time – until Christmas – which is now only 3 weeks away – my time in Europe is going too fast!  I’m actually looking  fwd to heading back to Umea – and I like that it feels like I am heading home !

I have been closer to Ikea in Spain than in Sweden (nearest one 3 hrs away from Umea!)

Malaga Airport - see the fresh SNOW on the mountains behind!

Muchas gracias para todo Espana!  I shall return someday – perhaps to visit Vickie when she moves here - hurry up and get that Irish passport COP UP?!